As summer approaches, thousands of mountain herders along with their livestock move upward to alpine pastures, where life is ruled by nature’s own clock. This seasonal migration, while appearing idyllic, involves significant physical effort and dedication.
For our Lykkers, discovering the alpine way of life offers a glimpse into a world where tradition and nature blend closely.
Alpine Pastures and Seasonal Work
What Are Alpine Pastures?
Alpine pastures are high-altitude meadows usually situated above the tree line, cultivated only during the warmer months. These areas have historically been essential for supporting mountain settlements and rural economies.
By grazing livestock in these upland meadows during summer, it helps reduce pressure on valley pastures and ensures sufficient food reserves for colder months. In Switzerland, about one-third of agricultural land consists of alpine pasture. During summer, around 500,000 cows graze across roughly 7,000 mountain farms for about 100 days.
The Role of Mountain Herders
Mountain herders care for livestock from multiple farmers. They guide the animals to fresh grazing zones, milk cows twice daily, and produce cheeses such as Alpkäse or Tomme.
Visitors can tour working alp farms, such as those near Appenzell or the Bernese Oberland, many of which offer guided visits (€10–15 per person) and cheese tastings. Farms like Alp Tannenboden (Flumserberg) and Bergkäse Schaukäserei (Engelberg) even provide short workshops.
The Seasonal Journey: Up and Down the Mountain
Ascending with Tradition
Each June, herders ascend the mountain with their livestock in a tradition known as the Alpaufzug. Cows are decorated with flower wreaths and large ceremonial bells.
Some of the best places to witness this are:
- Appenzell Alpaufzug (late May to mid-June): free to attend; arrive early to secure a spot.
- Entlebuch Biosphere, Lucerne region: accessible via train from Lucerne (45 mins).
Descending and Celebrating
In autumn, the herders lead their animals back down the slopes. This return journey is also marked by decorated animals and lively celebrations. The event attracts thousands of spectators and is an occasion for various festivities, marking the end of the alpine grazing season.
Evening Traditions and Blessings
The Evening Call to Gather
In some alpine regions, especially in parts of central Europe, a unique evening ritual still echoes across the meadows. After a day’s hard work, herders perform an ancient spoken chant known as the “blessing of the pasture.”
In autumn (late September–October), animals return to the valleys during the Alpabfahrt or Desalpe, marked by lively celebrations.
Top events include:
- Désalpe in Charmey (Canton of Fribourg) – One of Switzerland's biggest, with traditional music, food stalls, and parades.
Entry: Free. Nearby lodging: Hôtel de Ville (from €90/night).
- Alpabfahrt in Klosters – Includes local crafts and open-air festivities.
Train from Zurich: ~2.5 hrs. Stay at Hotel Piz Buin (from €120/night) or nearby mountain lodges (€80–€150/night).
Evolution of the Ritual
Though once viewed skeptically by authorities and officially banned in some areas during past centuries, the tradition was later reinterpreted with new meanings that aligned it with broader spiritual values. This preservation and transformation have kept the ritual alive as an integral part of alpine cultural heritage.
Festive Gatherings on the Mountain
Celebration at Summer’s End
The end of the summer season in the mountains is often marked by a traditional festival called the Älplerchilbi. This event is a centuries-old gathering where farmers come together to express gratitude for a successful grazing season through communal meals, music, and dancing.
The scale and style of celebrations vary by locality, with some regions hosting large street processions that attract tens of thousands of visitors.
Local Variations
Around central Switzerland’s Rigi region, unique versions of the festival have developed that emphasize the presentation of herders’ experiences and their traditional attire. These gatherings, sometimes called “Sennenchilbi,” serve both as cultural preservation and lively social occasions.
Participation in Mountain Life
How to Experience Alpine Life Firsthand
Today, many working alpine farms offer short stays, ideal for those looking to unwind and unplug.
Recommendations:
- Alphütten in the Bernese Alps: rustic huts with beds from €40/night.
- Agritourism stays near Grindelwald or Andermatt: include meals (breakfast & dinner), work participation, and guided hikes – €75–110/night.
Many farms also offer:
- Cheese-making workshops (€30–50)
- Day trips and tours for families (farm tour + picnic) – €23–37/person.
- “Work-Exchange” stays (volunteering in exchange for board) (4–6 hrs/day): free lodging + meals (min. 1-week commitment).
Where to Eat
Mountain huts (Berggasthäuser) serve local specialties like Älplermagronen (Alpine macaroni) and homemade cheese platters. Top picks include:
- Bergrestaurant Äscher (Appenzell) – Stunning cliffside views.
- Alprestaurant Oberstockenalp (Berner Oberland) – Authentic farm-to-table dining.
Prices: €14–23 per meal, cards accepted at most huts, but carry cash in remote villages.
In Summary
Mountain life in the high pastures is a unique blend of demanding work, enduring traditions, and stunning natural beauty. For Lykkers curious about this lifestyle, the seasonal migration of herders and livestock opens a window to centuries-old practices shaped by the landscape and climate.
The welcoming festivals and rituals offer a chance to participate and appreciate the rich cultural heritage that continues to thrive above the valleys. Are you ready to embracing these experiences?
